Parsnips Parley

Yesterday I advocated for greater consideration of the modest parsnip, along with the promise of a follow-up of recipes and more (parsnippets?). So here goes nothing.

I recognize this may not be the most popular post, especially in a month that’s included chocolate truffles and chocolate pots de crème. It’s also doubtful that anyone will ever stumble across this entry in a Google quest (“If only I could find the perfect parsnips recipe…”). Regardless, I stand by my conviction that parsnips are highly agreeable, and in the case of the recipe I offer today, at times downright delectable.

So to quote Julie Andrews, let’s start at the very beginning—it’s a very good place to start.

Most parsnips look just like carrots (see my photo from yesterday’s post), only tannish-white. It’s no surprise that they are in fact related to carrots: both are members of the umbelliferae family whose other members include fennel, celery, parsley, chervil and celeriac. The bayonet type of parsnip (long and narrow) are the most common, but you can find parsnips in other shapes, too, including a bulbous type (it looks like the bulldog of the parsnip family) and a wedge type (broad and long).

Flavor is primary when I cook (not always when I eat; I seem to be eating more than my fair share of found, stale cheerios these days, scattered by a certain tiny someone). So I won’t beat around the parsnips bush in that regard: Parsnips have a sweet, somewhat nutty, delicate taste and a mild celery-like fragrance. The texture is starchy, similar to potatoes, but far lighter. Fresh ones have a buttery-soft consistency when cooked, but beware: old parsnips are fibrous and bitter. You can tell if a parsnip is in its youthful prime from its firmness; it should be crisp, smooth and sturdy (i.e., avoid limber parsnips). Also, the whiter ones are, in general, the most tender.

Parsnip nutrition is pretty impressive, too. They are low in calories (about 130 for a whole one 9-inch parsnip of medium girth) and contain no saturated fat or cholesterol. Parsnips boast a substantial amount of fiber, too, as well as significant amounts of folic acid, calcium, and potassium, vitamin C (1/2 cup has 20% of a day’s supply) and small amounts of vitamins B1, B2, B3, iron, and zinc.

Before I sink deeper into lecture mode (“Buehler…Buehler…”), let’s get on to the cooking. Hurrah, parsnips are easy. Easy! If you’ve washed, peeled, and cooked carrots, you know everything necessary to begin cooking parsnips. Once prepped, go to town: roast; steam; toss into soups and stews for interest and variety; simmer them with a bit of chicken broth and then whip into an elegant puree with a touch of olive oil or butter; add to your favorite roasted vegetable mélange or potato mash; or puree into an exquisite soup (I’ll provide a recipe very soon).

Or try them in my roasted salad. I realized after making it that this marks the second week in a row I’ve proffered a bacon-infused dish; it’s too early to claim a porky pattern, but I’ll reassess next Friday. I might have to make this a temporary trend (umm, Friday night bacon).

If you take a closer look at the recipe, you’ll see I’ve cut out any fussy steps of toasting the nuts and rendering the bacon in separate pans; instead , it’s all accomplished in one foil-lined baking sheet (which leads to my favorite form of clean-up: the 2-second crumble and toss). It also calls for a good amount of flat leaf parsley—it acts as the salad green here, a fresh, slightly citrus contrast to the rustic root vegetables and bacon. Pick up a rotisserie chicken, and you’ve got dinner (that’s all that we did).

Finally, if you need some sort of food snobbery incentive (why not?) to try parsnips, look no further than the most sophisticated of swine: in Italy, pigs bred for the best-quality Parma ham are fed nothing more than a sweet, spare diet of parsnips. So eat up: you’ll be in great company.

Roast Parsnip, Pear & Pecan Salad (with Bacon)

3 parsnips, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick wedges
3 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans
2 packed cups flat leaf parsley leaves
1 large firm-ripe pear, stemmed, cored and thinly sliced
Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil.

Toss the parsnips, bacon and olive oil in a large bowl; season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes. Add pecans and roast for a further 5 minutes or until parsnips are golden and tender when pierced with a knife. Let cool 5 minutes.

Transfer the warm parsnip mixture to a large, shallow serving bowl. Add the parsley, pears, lemon juice and lemon zest, tossing to coat; season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste. Divide the salad among 4 bowls and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

(will post nutrition info tomorrow when I am fully conscious)

A Light & Quick Cassoulet

When I was in graduate school, my California friends and acquaintances would invariably ask the same question with every visit home: “Remind me where it is you attend school? It's one of the I states, isn't it?”

After years of replying “Indiana,” the abbreviated responses remained constant: in summer, "Ooh, Hot!" and in winter, "Ooh, Cold!" The utterances were delivered with the force of profound revelation, and typically joined by smirking condescension, not unlike that of an older sibling informing a younger sibling that there is no Santa Claus.

Little did they know that while "grim" often defined my Midwest winters, it rarely typefied my accompanying mood (and that’s coming from a bonafide cold-weather whiner who dons mittens and scarf when the temperature dips below 65).

Here’s why: daily survival on freezing, miserable days cheered me. Residents of idyllic weather states may miss out on shoveling snow and scraping frozen car windows, but they also lose the tiny joys derived from minor mid-winter feats, such as making it through the day without careening headlong into a snowbank or losing the feeling in one's face.

Now that I once again live in a sunny state (Texas), I’m still (occasionally) nostalgic for those winter victories that brightened many otherwise bleak days: dry socks, sidewalk steam vents, nonskid soles, and making it home, unscathed, to savor central heating, slippers and a warming supper.

But I can still make one of my favorite celebratory suppers from those days past, and today is a good day to do it: our lone state weather-forecasters are predicting a return of old man winter for the next few days (in the low 60s, oh no! Crank up the thermostat and send in the downs!). The dish in question is a simplified cassoulet, a dish that champions home comfort. It sounds like "casserole" and, similarly, it is an amalgamation of multiple ingredients baked ensemble.

Authentic cassoulet is a rich, delectable concoction of goose confit, meats and beans cooked slowly in an earthenware pot.

The dish hales from Languedoc, part of the ancient land of Occitania, which includes all of southwestern France and whose language was the langue d'Oc, the language of the troubadours.

The Languedoc can be divided into three gastronomic regions: the Languedoc Mediterenee (think garlic, olive oil and herbs); the Roussillon or Pays Catalan (couple the olive oil with the lusty rustic flavors of ham and sausage); and the Languedoc Toulousain, home of cassoulet, where olive oil yields to goose fat and the dishes are hearty, meaty and earthy.

The flavor of authentic cassoulet is extraordinary and complex. Regrettably, the same holds true for the preparation, making it beyond the realm of my typical weeknight reportoire. Moreover, goose fat is markedly absent from my pantry, and I have no immediate plans for goose wrangling. For these reasons, an efficient rendering seems more than justified.

My streamlined cassoulet is not a complete break from the original. According to several sources, everyone in Languedoc who makes cassoulet fervently contends theirs is the authentic version, but every recipe is slightly different. Consider this recipe one permutation of many. I make no claims of authenticity, but am passionate about the contribution of this undemanding dish to the small thrills of winter.

And Now a Brief Message from the Parsnips Advisory Board...

If you've peaked at the recipe, I know what you're thinking: what will I substitute for the parsnips?

Don't do it! Give parsnips a chance. They're waiting for you in the grocery store, right next to the other root vegetables. Even the most miserable produce sections carry parsnips.

Take a look: elegant, slender, and sophisticated, yet low-maintenance all the way (just like their cousins, carrots).

Now take them home. Peel them up, cut into a dice, and toss in the cassoulet. When the cooking's done, take a taste. Sweet, earthy, and surprise: delicious! You'll wonder why you've shunned them all these years. They're a perfect foil to the sausage, in particular.

Before you start searching your cookbooks for parsnips recipes (it's ok to admit it: you've never perused parsnips before), hold tight: I have two doozies for you tomorrow. In the meantime, enjoy the cassoulet.

Enlightened Sausage & Sage Cassoulet

Don't worry about the large yield for this recipe if your household has a short number of inhabitants; the leftovers are smashing, so you'll want to have a day-after dinner or lunch.

Transfer leftovers to a smaller baking dish up to 2 days. Reheat at 375° F for about 20 minutes. To make ahead and freeze, prepare without the breadcrumb topping. Cover and freeze up to 4 months. When ready to cook, uncover the cassoulet, sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture, and bake, unthawed, 45 minutes to 1 hour at 400° F.

Be sure to have a glass of wine or two; you'll need the hydration to balance out the sodium from the sausage :).
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
1 1-pound package light smoked sausage, cut into thick slices at an angle
1 large onion, chopped
1 and 1/4 cups chicken broth
3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
3 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 15 -ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
3 tablespoons canned tomato paste
3 15-ounce cans of great Northern, cannellini, or navy beans, drained and rinsed
2 and 1/2 teaspoons rubbed sage
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup plain breadcrumbs (preferably fresh)
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

In a Dutch oven or other large, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Cook the sausage and onions until sausages are browned and onions softened. Add the chicken broth, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, tomato paste, beans, thyme, sage, salt, pepper, and half of the garlic.

Increase heat to medium-high and mix well, scraping up any brown bits that have stuck to the bottom of the Dutch oven. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes to 1 hour, until thickened and the vegetables are tender.

Heat oven to 400°F. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, parsley, remaining tablespoon olive oil and remaining garlic. Sprinkle evenly over the cassoulet and place in the oven. Bake, uncovered, until the crust is golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1/8 of the cassoulet):Calories 265; Fat 7.3g (poly 0.6g, mono 3.3g, sat 1.5g); Protein 16.5g; Cholesterol 25mg; Carbohydrate 41.1g; Sodium 989.1mg)
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Vegetarian Panna Cotta & An Ingredient You Must Try: Agar-Agar

You can watch the accompanying video to this recipe on my YouTube channel:

VEGETARIAN PANNA COTTA

Another post about panna cotta? Well, yes—but it’s with a particular purpose, so allow me to indulge myself.

It’s true that I love panna cotta, but it does have a distinct shortcoming: vegetarians and vegans cannot eat it. Panna cotta is held together with gelatin, and gelatin is an animal product, derived from bones and cartilage (I know, best not to think abut it too much).

But a solution exists: agar agar.

Agar-agar is a flavorless gel, derived from cooked and pressed seaweed; it is available flaked, powdered, or in bars (the photo above is flakes). It is most often used in Asian desserts and candies, but it has been gaining popularity in Western countries with the rise in vegetarianism. I had never worked with agar agar before, so when I was home in the bay area this Christmas, I picked up a few packets from Whole Foods. And what better test subject than my favorite dessert?

It so happens that agar-agar has two bonuses that make it worth trying, regardless of vegetarian or carnivore status. First, whereas gelatin takes several hours to set, agar-agar takes about 1 hour. Procrastinators rejoice! Second, unlike gelatin, it does not require refrigeration to set.

I read multiple references to these two features, both in books and on manufacturer web pages, but I was skeptical. Analysis was in order.

I decided on a batch of fruit “Jell-O”, made from apple juice, before venturing into the panna cotta arena. I dissolved, heated, whisked, poured into a bowl, and set the timer. After an hour of hijinks with Nick, the “beep beep” went off (I am regressing into toddler-speak; don’t be surprised if future posts read along the lines of “Eat ‘nana! Mmm. No-No! Mine! Night-Night.”), so I shuffled back to the kitchen to assess part one of my experiment.

Sure enough, it was set to perfection: a pleasantly soft texture, not the least bit rubbery, and definitely reminiscent of the best nursery food jell-o. Nick wanted to eat the whole bowl, but I limited him to a few bites to continue with phase two of my research trial: would agar-agar Jell-o remain set if left, unrefrigerated, for several hours? I draped a clean kitchen towel over the bowl’s top, and headed to the park with Nick.

Spinning on a tire swing until nauseous does wonders for eradicating all thoughts from one’s brain, so by the time I returned I had forgotten all about checking my test. It wasn’t until Kevin arrived home that my memory returned. He peaked under the towel at the bowl of half-eaten apple gel. With what is as close to a plea as Kevin can rouse, he uttered the following: “This won’t have any role in dinner tonight, will it?”

Oh, Kevin. I reassured him, then pushed spoon into gel. Sure enough, it was still set, with no discernable difference from my earlier tasting (four hours previous). What a great discovery! I still prefer to have the gel chilled (I like my gelatin cool; there's something faintly disturbing about room temperature/warm jell-o), but this presents some great opportunities for future experimentation (especially for entertaining a larger group or party: panna cotta and other desserts can be set out without worry of melting).

I moved on to trying the agar-agar in some of my light panna cotta recipes. The results are stellar. I made it with fat free evaporated milk and yogurt (per yesterday’s recipe); honestly, I couldn’t tell the difference between it and the panna cotta made with gelatin.

But then I went a step further, making a vegan/dairy-free panna cotta that can be enjoyed by lactose-intolerant and vegan friends as well (Kevin thinks I’m devising some sort of cuckoo plan for global panna cotta conversion; what a delicious domination that would be!).

I wasn’t keen on straight soy or rice milk (tasted flat and rubbery); it definitely needed more creaminess to make it panna cotta-worthy. I finally settled on a combination of canned light coconut milk and vanilla soy yogurt. The results are rich and creamy, and I also favor the snow-white color. But like other recipes I’ve offered, I want all of you to consider this a stencil for all varieties of flavors: try different spices, extracts and toppings, whatever you can dream up.

Keep in mind that highly acidic ingredients, such as lemons, strawberries, oranges, and other citrus fruits, may require more agar-agar than the recipe calls for. Also, enzymes in fresh mangoes, papaya, fresh ginger and pineapple break down the gelling ability of the agar-agar so that it will not set. You can use these fruits in topping (as I have done here, with mango) or cook them before adding to the recipe (the cooking neutralizes the enzymes so that the agar-agar can set).

One final point: agar-agar can be pricey. The packets I purchased at Whole Foods ran about seven dollars per 1-ounce package. But prices are far better online and, if you live in a larger metropolitan area, at Asian grocery stores. I picked up an identical pouch at an Asian grocery store (after my Whole Foods visit) for four dollars. Here are some online sources; I plan to use one or the other when my current supply runs out:

Now Foods Agar Powder

Barry Farm Agar Powder (this is an excellent deal: 4 ounces for $7.90; the Eden brand pouch I have (the one that cost $7.00) is only 1 ounce.

Vegetarian Vanilla Panna Cotta with Fresh Mango Sauce

You can use other “milks” for the light coconut: soy, rice, or almond. I prefer the light coconut milk. It does not lend a notable coconut flavor, but rather acts as a neutral backdrop for other taste combinations. If you want to play up the coconut flavor for a tropical panna cotta, add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of coconut extract.

I find that soy milk and rice milk, in particular, have a distinctive soy/rice flavor which I don’t like for the panna cotta.

1 and 1/4 cups canned light coconut milk

1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons sugar, divided use

2 teaspoons agar agar powder OR 2 tablespoons agar agar flakes

1 cup soy vanilla yogurt (preferably Silk brand)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Optional: fresh berries, mint leaves

In a medium saucepan combine the coconut milk, 1/4 cup sugar and agar agar. Let stand 5 minutes. Bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, 8 minutes, or until agar has mostly dissolved (there will be some flecks of translucent agar in mixture), stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.

Strain mixture through fine-mesh sieve into small pitcher or measuring cup. Whisk in yogurt and vanilla until smooth. Pour into 4 individual ramekins/custard cups OR decorative glasses. Transfer to refrigerator. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour until set (or up to 24 hours).

Meanwhile, in a food processor or blender, process the mango chunks, lime juice and remaining 2 teaspoons sugar until smooth. Refrigerate sauce until ready to use.

To serve, immerse bottom half of ramekin or custard cup in hot water about 15 seconds. Run a clean small knife around edge to loosen. Invert onto dessert plate (Note: if using glasses, no unmolding required). Serve with mango sauce, garnished with mint and berries (optional). Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 serving):
Calories 128; Fat 3.5g (sat 2.6g, mono 0.4g, poly 0.1g); Protein 2.4g; Cholesterol 0mg; Carbohydrate 22.9g; Sodium 16.7mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Agar-Agar Tips

Here are some general guidelines on how to use agar-agar in recipes, including the ratio for substituting agar-agar for regular gelatin:

*Substitute powdered agar-agar for powdered gelatin measure for measure in existing recipes.

*1 tablespoon of agar-agar flakes is equal to 1 teaspoon of agar-agar powder.

*To set 2 cups of liquid, use 2 teaspoons of agar-agar powder (or 2 tablespoons of agar-agar flakes).

*Like gelatin, let the agar-agar stand in the liquid for about 5 minutes (to soften) before heating the liquid.

A Lighter Panna Cotta

You can watch the accompanying video for this recipe on my YouTube channel:

YOGURT PANNA COTTA WITH HONEY & CITRUS

Spring swept into town last week like an exaltation of larks. The only downside was the accompanying perfume of East Texas chicken farms.

But it is bright and beautiful outside and the excitement in the air is thicker than the chilly gray fog that’s been hovering above Nacogdoches the past few weeks. Shorts and flip-flops are replacing sweaters and rainboots on campus (although many never gave up on the former options, even in pre-tornado conditions), and library carrels are being abandoned for the nearest patches of dry lawn.

My challenge? My menu. These first kisses of warm sun have me thinking about lemonade and salad, but dare I believe the sunny days are here to stay? (Apologies to those of you reading from snowy climes; curses accepted). Moreover, by the time the evening chill settles in, I’m back to craving winter comfort food, topped off with a flop on the sofa with my latest novel (Total Immersion, by Allegra Goodman. I think she is a brilliant writer).

So I’ve decided to cop out and bake bread and make dessert instead. I have a backlog of soup in the freezer from recent recipe testing, so defrosting I will go (besides, I teach at 5:30 tonight; the timing always presents a challenge unless I cook ahead). I’ve sloshed and sifted ingredients into the breadmaking machine; a loaf of five seed wheat bread is on the way in another few hours (it’s a superb recipe from Sunset). Last, I’ve stirred up a batch of yogurt and honey panna cotta for dessert.

I am crazy for panna cotta because it routinely solves my problem of what to make for dessert, whether for an elegant dinner party or a casual Tuesday supper at home, with little effort and grand results.

I’ve earmarked hundreds of complicated dessert recipes in my copies of Gourmet, Bon Appetit and Food & Wine over the years, with grand plans of making the colossal desserts for future get-togethers. But whenever such a friendly fête rolls around, I’m typically preoccupied with the location and removal of dust bunnies and soap scum in between cooking dinner. Foolish notions of tempering chocolate and piping dacquoise disks are promptly squashed. And, in the end, even my food-loving friends and family feel the seams in their pants surrender at the mere mention of a triple-tiered coconut buttercream cake at the close of a meal.

Panna cotta, a soft, creamy Italian custard with plenty of style, but little fuss, is the answer to it all. Light and silken, it’s a true dinner dessert, slipping down effortlessly after suppers big or small. The name translates as “cooked cream” and the recipe is almost as straightforward: heat some heavy cream, add some sugar, softened gelatin, and flavorings, and then chill until set.

Much like vanilla ice cream, panna cotta is a blank slate. One master panna cotta recipe can be transformed by varying the liquid for softening the gelatin, the type of sweetener, or the type of extract used. Or experiment with the addition of any number of spices, from cinnamon to ginger to cardamom.

I panna cotta-ed myself (and husband) silly writing a book on the subject, yet we still look forward to it. These days I most often make it with lighter ingredients; the results are so delicious, you’ll bust your buttons when you try it (from the pleasure and pride in making it, not from the fat and calories).

Case in point, my honey and yogurt panna cotta. I use canned fat free evaporated milk in place of some of the heavy cream, then use plain lowfat yogurt to seal the deal. Adding yogurt or sour cream to panna cotta heightens both the flavor (a subtle tang) and texture (like velvet), and also more closely approximates the thick, tangy cream of Northern Italy, the region in which panna cotta originated.

I’m keeping the flavorings fresh and spare today: segmented oranges and their juices (we had a bag on our countertop), matched with a touch of orange flower water and a sprinkle of ground coriander (it has subtle notes of citrus peel and sage). I keep the amount of gelatin to the lowest amount possible for a silky texture that is set without being rubbery.

Finally, this version of panna cotta can either be made in its entirety up to a day ahead or, prepared just before dinner (by the time you get around to dessert 3 hours later, it will be set.

The results for either method? Silky, smooth, streamlined—perfect. Happy Tuesday.

Enlightened Yogurt Panna Cotta with Honey & Citrus

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup honey
2/3 cup canned fat free evaporated milk
1 cup lowfat plain yogurt or plain Greek yogurt
1 teaspoon orange flower water
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
Two large navel oranges, peeled and cut into segments (all pith and membranes removed), juices reserved
Optional: 4 fresh mint sprigs

In a small bowl sprinkle gelatin over water. Let stand 5 minutes until dissolved (no powder remains).

In a medium saucepan stir together the honey and evaporated milk. Heat until hot but not boiling. Add gelatin and stir until gelatin is dissolved. Remove from heat. Whisk in the yogurt, flower water and coriander until smooth. Pour into 4 individual ramekins/custard cups OR decorative glasses. Transfer to refrigerator. Refrigerate 3-4 hours until set (or up to 24 hours).

To serve, immerse bottom half of ramekin or custard cup in hot water about 15 seconds. Run a clean small knife around edge to loosen. Invert onto dessert plate (Note: if using glasses, no unmolding required). Serve with oranges and their juices, garnished with mint (optional). Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 serving):
Calories 172; Fat 1.0g (sat 0.6g, mono 0.3g, poly 0.1g); Protein 5.1g; Cholesterol 3.7mg; Carbohydrate 30.1g; Sodium 84.6mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Easy Teriyaki Salmon Skewers with Cucumber Salad

My sister, Rebecca, is crazy for fish. Fresh fish, canned fish, frozen fish—she can’t get enough. I’m looking forward to the day she visits Iceland—I’m sure she’ll return with tasty tales of her encounters with one of their stinky specialties, rotten shark. (I know you’ll read this at some point, Becca, so I also have to make fun of your fondness for canned oysters. To quote your 19-month-old nephew, when he is in need of a diaper change, “P.U!”).

By contrast, I began life with a distinct aversion to aquatic edibles.

My turnaround was gradual (a fishstick here, a salmon cake there), but my lack of fish affection worried me, especially when I started getting more serious about cooking. This was due, in large part, to my boyfriend of the time, who insisted I would never be a real gourmet unless I learned to love all fish and seafood, from the mundane to the bizarre (fish eyeballs anyone?).

My choice was clear. Given that my mother’s “Oriental” tuna casserole still topped my list of favorite fish dishes, I opted against gourmet and for skilled home cookery.

Much has changed on my personal fish front in the two decades since. I like fish a lot. I’m still uncomfortable with the “love” word, but the affection is real. I think we have something that will last.

My cooking philosophy, though, remains static. I am of similar mindset to James Beard, who proclaimed he loathed the phrase “gourmet cooking.” Rather, “there is fabulous cooking, good cooking, mediocre cooking and bad cooking.”

Using this categorization, a dinner of 10 minute teriyaki salmon skewers, a crunchy cucumber salad and steamed rice not only passes muster, but falls squarely in the sector of good and fabulous. It reminded me of home, where good Japanese restaurants are plentiful (and great ones abound, too, like our neighbor Noriko’s restaurant Norikonoko).

You might not earn the title “gourmet” by making dishes such as this one, but you will earn a reputation for being one heck of a good cook.

Toodle-oo; I’m growing bleary (stayed up too late watching the Academy Awards last night). I'll be back tomorrow (I've got some plans up my sleeve).

Teriyaki Salmon Skewers with Cucumber Salad

Can you make this in fillet form (and skip the skewers)? Absolutely. Do what works for you; I just like how the teriyaki sauce penetrates the fish with flavor when the fish is cut into smaller pieces. Also, I usually double the sauce and set half of it aside to use for extra dipping.

Nervous about removing the skin from a fish fillet? No worries, it's pretty simple, especially if you have visual aids. Here's a video link showing how it's done: How to remove skin from fish fillets.

Steamed rice (white or brown) is all you need to finish the meal.

Technically, this makes 4 servings--but we almost always eat the whole thing (2 skewers apiece). If one or two skewers are leftover, though, they are very delicious for lunch the next day (trust me on this one--I am rarely tempted by leftover fish).

3/4 pound salmon fillet, skin removed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/4 cup mirin (rice wine) or dry sherry
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 and 1/2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon bottled chili-garlic sauce
2 English cucumbers (or 4 regular), thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
3 tablespoons seasoned rice (sushi) vinegar

Cut the salmon crosswise into 1-inch strips, cut each strip into 1-inch cubes. In a medium bowl whisk the soy sauce, brown sugar, mirin, ginger, lime juice and chili-garlic sauce. Add the salmon pieces and tosss to combine, Let stand 5 minutes. Toss cucumbers with vinegar, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Place oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler; line broiler pan with foil and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Thread salmon onto 4 metal skewers and place on broiler pan (reserve sauce). Cook 2 minutes and (generously) brush with reserved sauce. Repeat until the salmon is just flaky, about 8 minutes total. Serve the salmon skewers with the cucumber salad. Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 skewer, 1/4 of the cucumbers):
Calories 169; Fat 3.1g (sat 0.5g, mono 0.8g, poly 1.2g); Protein 19.1g; Cholesterol 44.2mg; Carbohydrate 12.2g; Sodium 562.8mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Homemade Lara Bars (energy bars part 3)

Apologies for this post being a few days late, but my love for LARA bars demanded several tries and multiple flavor variations before posting—I really wanted to get this as close to the real thing as possible.

Whether you’ve heard of them or not, LARA BARS are one of the very best energy bars on the market, largely because they are made from a short list of real food ingredients: nuts, fruits and spices. In addition to their inarguable yummy-ness, they boast the following assets:

Unprocessed - Raw - Non-GMO - Gluten Free - Dairy Free - Soy Free - Vegan - Kosher.

For comparison sake, take a look at the Lara bar ingredients and the ingredients for another apple-ish flavored bar on the market (made by Powerbar):

LARABAR: Apple Pie Flavor (from http://www.larabar.com/)Dates, Walnuts, Unsweetened Apples, Almonds, Raisins, Cinnamon

Powerbar: Apple Cinnamon Flavor (from http://www.powerbar.com/)High Fructose Corn Syrup With Grape And Pear Juice Concentrate, Oat Bran, Maltodextrin, Milk Protein Isolate, Rice Crisps (Milled Rice, Rice Bran), Brown Rice Flour, Almond Butter, Apple Powder, Natural Flavor, Glycerin, Soy Protein Isolate, Cinnamon and Peanut Flour.CONTAINS ALMOND, MILK, PEANUT AND SOY INGREDIENTS.

Umm, glycerin.

The only downside to LARA bars is that once you try them, you love them, and you’ve got to have them. And at about $1.60 to $2.00 per bar, times three family members (yes, baby likes small bites of them, too), it starts to get pricey. Hence my ersatz, but equally enchanting, rendition.

Just me and my food processor…
A few raw ingredients, and no cooking required? Replication seemed possible. I found a handful of blog posts with recipes for homemade LARA-type bars, but they didn’t sound like they could possibly be correct.

The primary problem was that quite a few recipes pushed for a one to three ratio of fruit to nuts. I tried it, and my suspicions were correct: far too many nuts, nowhere near enough fruit (an easy give-away: if there were so many nuts, it would always be listed as the first ingredient on the LARA BAR packaging; it is not).

In addition, the specifications for each of the steps (how fine to chop/process the nuts and fruits, how to blend, etc) were vague.

After a few delicious rounds of testing, I think I’ve got a good facsimile; Kevin agrees, and baby Nick kept pleading, “More! More!”.

So here’s what to do for two bars (and this can be doubled, tripled, quadrupled, etc; it only depends on the size of your food processor). I’m using cherry as my main example, but I’ve listed some variations below. You can be as creative as you like with the combinations.

Raw or Toasty—It’s Up to You
The Raw Foods Movement is fascinating, but if the raw angle does not matter to you, and you have a bit of extra time, consider lightly toasting the nuts; it boosts the flavor significantly (but truth be told, I still like the raw flavor best). Or, if you like salty-sweet, you can opt for roasted, lightly salted nuts—yum!
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Bars, Shmars...
There is no rule saying you have to shape these into bars; you can shape them into little truffle shapes or squares (see photo 6). It's a great candy alternative (and this comes from someone with a not-so-secret affection for sour fruit jelly bellies).

Very Cherry Bars (use as a template for almost any combination)

LARA BARS use a multi-layer package that keeps out UV light and oxygen, which, in turn, maintains freshness without the use of preservatives. I use plain old plastic wrap and my refrigerator, then pop one in my bag when I’m ready to go.

1/4 cup chopped dates (roughly chopped whole fresh dates; see my note about pre-chopped below)
1/4 cup dried cherries or dried cranberries
1/3 cup whole pecans, almonds or walnuts
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

Set out two pieces of plastic wrap for shaping and wrapping the bars. Do this first; you’ll have sticky fingers when you need it.

Place the dates and cherries in a food processor. Pulse until processed to a paste (photo 1). Transfer paste to a medium bowl (don’t clean processor).

Add the nuts to the processor and pulse until finely chopped (photo 2). Add the nuts, along with the cinnamon, to the bowl with the fruit paste (photo 3). Use your fingers to knead the nuts into the paste (just keep squishing, it’s fun; brings back memories of play-dough; see photo 4).
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Divide mixture in half. Place each half on each of one of the sheets of plastic wrap. Wrap the plastic around each bar and start squishing into a bar shape form, 3 and 1/2 inches long, 1 inch wide and 3/4-inch thick); press against countertop to flatten bottom side, flattening top side and ends with flat of hand (photo 5) Tightly wrap the plastic around each bar and store in the refrigerator. Makes 2 bars.
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Nutrition per Serving (1 bar): Calories 207; Fat 9.4 g (sat .8g, mono 5.2g, poly 3.1g); Protein 3.9g; Cholesterol 0mg; Carbohydrate 24.9g; Sodium 0.4mg. (Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Note about using pre-chopped dates: Pre-chopped dried dates are much cheaper than whole dates, and sometimes are the only option available at the supermarket, depending on where you live. However, they are typically coated with oat flour (to prevent sticking), and sometimes a bit of sugar, too. They are too dry and hard to work as is in this recipe, but with a bit of tweaking, they will work just fine. To make them usable for larabar purposes, place them in a small bowl and cover with warm water (not hot or boiling water; this will make them turn to mush). Let stand 3 to 5 minutes until softened; then drain and pat dry. Not only will this soften the dates, it will remove any oat flour and/or sugar).


A Few Ideas for Variations:

Apricot-Almond: Use 6 tablespoons coarsely chopped dried apricots and 2 tablespoons date (to measure 1/2 cup total); use almonds for the nuts.

Tropical: Use tropical fruit bits (these come pre-packaged at the supermarket); use raw cashews for the nuts. Add 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest, and 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice to the mix.

PB & J (cheap and delicious!): Use 1/4 cup dried cherries or cranberries and 1/4 cup raisins or dates; use raw or roasted peanuts (lightly salted or unsalted) for the nuts.

Blueberry Bliss: Use 1/4 cup dried blueberries and 1/4 cup dates; use almonds for the nuts. Add 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, and a drop of almond extract to the mix.

Cashew Cookie Dough: Reverse the proportions of fruit to nuts--Use 1/3 cup dates for the fruit and 1/2 cup raw cashews for the nuts.

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough: Same as cashew cookie dough, but add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, pinch of cinnamon and 1/2 ounce very finely chopped semisweet or bittersweet chocolate to the mix.

Pistachio Heaven: Same as cashew cookie dough, but use raw pistachios and add a tiny drop of almond extract.

Peanut Butter Cookie Dough: Same as cashew cookie dough but use raw or roasted (lightly salted) peanuts for the nuts.

Dates Nutrition Notes:
Dates are included in a majority of the LARA Bars, so I thought I’d mention a few facts about these wonderful fruits.

I love dates because I love brown sugar, and dates taste like brown sugar candy--hence they are a delicious and healthy way to curb my sweet tooth. One date has a mere 23 calories and is loaded with nutrition. Dates are an excellent source of carbohydrates (great for pre- or post-workout), contain no cholesterol, are high in fiber, and boast a wide range of nutrients, including calcium (32 mg per serving), Magnesium, Phosphorous, Potassium, Iron, Zinc, Copper, and Manganese.

Dates also contain vitamins A1, B1, B2, B3, B5, C and more than 20 different amino acids; they help in the digestion and assimilation of carbohydrates, and help to regulate blood sugar levels and fatty acids content in our bodies.


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Healthy Bacon Pasta? Add Broccoli, and Yes!

I’m still going to post my homemade LARA bar-like energy bar recipe (most likely tomorrow). In the meantime, I realized that my dinner offerings have been minimal in my posts of late. This post will begin to remedy that.

For me, dinner still provides an occasional hang up. On more occasions than I’d care to admit, 6 p.m. signals my brain to cozy up to a cup of tea—not a pile of raw chicken breasts. This is further exacerbated if I’ve already been experimenting in the kitchen all day for one project or another.

If I were still single, the tea (and likely a nap, too) would work, but other people in the house are hungry (and I know I will be, too).

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So dinner is on, and last night it was a warming pasta, one I haven’t made in awhile. It’s one of those rare meals that makes me feel simultaneously virtuous and decadent post-consumption.

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The pasta appeals for several reasons. Now that the last of the winter holidays is more than a week past, and frosty windows are bare of hearts, cupids and other festive adornments, the harried modern person (moi; et toi?) re-evaluates New Year’s resolutions to eat healthy foods in general, and vegetables in particular, with the same enthusiasm as a triple root canal.

A commitment to green vegetables is particularly loathsome in February (the mind starts to wander to thoughts like “perhaps I should just wait until next year?”), and it is amazing how many people single out broccoli as one of the most offensive options.

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Poor broccoli; it is rarely given the opportunity to deliver. In homes across the land it is sabotaged by cheezy-squeezy sauce. Restaurants most often boil it until it is good and dead, and then leave it hanging around over low heat until putrid. Or it is found raw and naked on supermarket party platters where, in both flavor and texture, it is akin to a rubber pencil eraser.

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But what most people do not know about broccoli is enough to fill a book. Even the most humdrum broccoli, strangled in cellophane wrap at the supermarket, can be wonderful if it is fresh and does not get overcooked.

Not only does broccoli have delicious potential, it ranks as a superfood (that is, when not cooked until gray). It is loaded with vitamins A and C, folic acid, calcium, fiber and a host of cancer-fighting phytochemicals. Before you buy, look for crisp, moist stalks with dark green or slightly purplish heads. Heads that are yellowing or flowering should be avoided.

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Once purchased, store the stalks loosely covered in the vegetable bin. Cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces and then lightly steam or quickly stir-fry until crisp-tender to maximize both the flavor and health potential.

Or you can make life even easier on yourself and buy a bag of broccoli florets. The difference between the florets and the bags stuffed with bulky stems is vast; the former are crisp and flavorful and taste remarkably like fresh when steamed or blanched.

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Try the following recipe on people -- yourself included -- who state categorically that they detest broccoli. They will likely change their minds. I have convinced many fussy eaters (e.g., a husband named Kevin and a son named Nick) of the virtues of broccoli with the following pasta, which is why I secretly refer to the dish as “Conversion Broccoli.”

The bacon is key to the recipe; it adds tremendous flavor (and hey, it really comes down to 1 slice per serving) and will make you want to eat your broccoli again and again.

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Orecchiette with Broccoli, Bacon & Lemon

This is a rendition of a very traditional Italian recipe (it usually has anchovies, but I cannot find good ones in the supermarket where I live; plus, I like bacon better :)) Orecchiette are smooth, curved rounds of flat pasta; about 1/2 -inch in diameter. The name, (pronounced or-ek-YET-teh) means "little ears", and the shape makes them perfect for chunky vegetable- and meat-based dishes, like this one. If you cannot find orecchiette, use wagon wheel shaped pasta or another short, stubby pasta.

.1/4 pound bacon (about 4 slices), chopped

3 and 1/2 cups small broccoli florets (fresh or frozen)

3/4 pound orecchiette-shaped pasta (or wagon wheels, or medium shells)

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup canned chicken low-sodium broth

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus fresh shavings for serving

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

4 wedges of lemon

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

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In a large skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp. While bacon is cooking, add the broccoli to the boiling water and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until just tender. Transfer vegetables with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain and keep water at a boil.

Add the garlic and drained broccoli to bacon and sauté until edges of broccoli begin to caramelize (turn slightly brown), about 3 minutes. Keep mixture warm.

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Cook pasta in boiling water until al dente and drain well in colander. Return pasta to large pot, add the broccoli mixture, olive oil, broth, 1/3 cup cheese, pepper, lemon zest, and salt to taste, tossing until combined well.

Spoon pasta into bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese shavings and a squeeze of lemon, if desired. Makes 4 main-dish servings.

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Nutrition per Serving (1/4 of the pasta):

Calories 438; Fat 10.8g (sat 2.9g, mono 4.9g, poly 1.7g); Protein 17.1g; Cholesterol 12.3mg; Carbohydrate 67g; Sodium 272.8mg.

(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

No-Bake Oatmeal Energy Bars with Cherries & Almonds

Continuing from yesterday’s post, I offer energy bar #2: an easy-as-can-be no-bake bar, reminiscent of oatmeal cookies and studded with dried cherries and almonds (or the fruits and nuts/seeds of your choice).

Inspiration for the bar stems from several ready-made bars I like, including CLIF bars, SOYJOY bars, and a vegetarian oat bar called BOBOS oat bars.

I really didn’t know what I was doing the first time I tried to pull these off. I found a recipe in Vegetarian Times magazine that, based on the headnote description and photo, resembled the Bobos bar.

I should have thought it through before assembly.

It was a no-bake bar, too, but instead of nut butter and/or honey, it was held together with tofu.

The gruel-like mixture was turned into a baking pan, topped with cheesecloth and a plate, then weighted with cans for 24 hours to set and dry out. I’m not kidding.

According to my resident food critic, and otherwise lovable husband, the results could be described in two words: prison rations.

But these bars are another story entirely. They are dense (definitely intended as a quick breakfast or very substantial snack on the go), but I like that texture—something of a riff on a rich, moist oatmeal cookie. I’ve played up their oatmeal cookie-ness further by adding a splash of vanilla, a dash of cinnamon, and some molasses (in place of some of the honey) because it adds that wonderful brown-sugar quality that pairs so well with oats.

Although I’ve fine-tuned the recipe to suit my tastes (cherry or blueberry-almond is my favorite permutation), please tweak away as much as you like; that’s what I’m intending by sharing the recipe.

I like to use roasted almonds or other roasted nuts in the recipe—it saves me the step of turning on the oven or stove to toast the nuts. I use salted nuts because I am a salty-sweet fan, but you can certainly use unsalted nuts or seeds, too.

Now pardon me for dashing off, I've got to go gobble one (or more!) of these right now; I just finished teaching pilates, followed by wind sprints with a toddler (and haven't eaten since this morning). Cheers!

No-Bake Oatmeal Energy Bars with Cherries and Almonds

These are also delicious with 1/2 cup miniature semisweet chocolate chips in place of the nuts or fruit.

2 and 1/2 cups old-fashioned oatmeal, uncooked
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ (e.g. Kretchsmer’s)
1/2 cup dried nonfat milk powder
1/2 cup dried cherries, blueberries, or other dried fruit, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup lightly salted roasted almonds (or other roasted or toasted nuts or seeds)
1 cup natural-style nut or seed butter (e.g., peanut, cashew, almond, or tahini)
3/4 cup honey
1/3 cup dark molasses (not blackstrap)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt

Line a 9x9-inch square metal baking pan foil; spray with nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium bowl mix the oatmeal, wheat germ, milk powder, dried fruit and nuts; set aside.

Place the nut butter, honey and molasses in a large heavy saucepan. Cook and stir over medium heat until bubbly, melted and smooth, about 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla, cinnamon and salt. Mix in the cereal mixture (mix until well blended and all of the oat mixture is coated).

Transfer mixture to prepared pan. Using a large square of wax paper or foil, very firmly press mixture down into pan to compact.

Cool completely. Remove bars using foil overhang and then cut into 16 bars or squares. Tightly wrap each bar in plastic wrap. Store the wrapped bars in a plastic zip-top bag in the refrigerator. Makes 16 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 bar):
Calories 234; Fat 9.1g (sat 1.3g, mono 4.6g, poly 2.9g); Protein 8.4g; Cholesterol 0.4mg; Carbohydrate 34.8g; Sodium 93.2mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

VEGAN No-Bake Oatmeal Energy Bars with Cherries and Almonds:
Use brown rice syrup in place of the honey and soy powder in place of the milk powder.

Easy Whole Grain, Fruit and Nut Energy Bars

I spent the better part of my twenties eating out of my backpack.

My twenties meant graduate school, and graduate school meant working a ridiculous number of jobs, including, but not limited to, fitness instructor, sociology instructor, food columnist, and personal trainer. (Oh, and then there was the business of being a graduate student and completing my degrees.)

To borrow a word from our commander-in-chief, this took considerable strategery in the planning and packing of meals and snacks to sustain me through the day. All told, I did my best to stuff assorted Tupperware and baggies full of healthy vegetables, gorp, trail mix, dried fruit, granola, salads, sandwiches, and leftovers.

But one can only carry so many pounds of food on one’s back without feeling the rush down the slippery slope to hobo-hood. I needed a lightweight solution, and I found it in an all-too-convenient wrapper: energy bars.

In retrospect, it was a deal with the devil: lighten the load, but lose the flavor (and eventually, after as many bars as I consumed, the will to live). Energy bars have come a long way in recent years, but my dependence occurred in the late nineties, a time when manufacturers were still determining how to make energy bars taste like food.

A few winners emerged early (e.g., Balance bars), but I stomached hundreds (thousands?) of losers, many of which had the flavor and texture of a peanut butter-infused sponge, with a soupçon of band-aids and a coating of chocolate ex-lax.

At some point I came to my senses and headed to the kitchen to make my own.

An energy bar, it turns out, requires little time, effort, or expertise to prepare. It’s not rocket science, and only minimal kitchen science: combine some high energy ingredients (e.g., nuts, dried fruits, seeds, cereal), hold it all together with some edible “glue” (e.g., nut or seed butter, honey, maple syrup), pop into the oven for a few minutes (or, as you’ll see in some posts to come, no-baking at all), and then cut into bars.

And the results? Delicious, almost endlessly versatile, and far less expensive to boot.

I’ll be sharing some of the recipes I’ve developed over the past years in the days to come. They’ve helped me return, in full flavor, from the living dead of bad-bar addiction. I’ve got several favorites, and I’m working on my own rendition of LARA bars (these only came to the scene a year or two ago).

For now, take number one: my 10-minute, whole grain bar, loaded with fruits, nuts, seeds, and (praise be), excellent flavor and texture.

These bars are crisp-chewy and keep for days (or weeks, if frozen) when tightly wrapped. I make them over and over because the steps and proportions are so easy to remember (simple to memorize) and I can vary the combinations of nuts, seeds, fruits, syrups, and nut butters almost endlessly (see my post about Non-Perishable Healthy Snacks for a list of dreid fruit, nuts, seeds and nut/seed butter, as well as some recommendations for GOOD ready-made energy bars, like LARA and GNU).

An added bonus: children (or I should say “child”—my 19 month old) love them; they are slightly reminiscent of rice crispy bars, but with far more substance.

To flavor!

Easy Whole Grain, Fruit and Nut Energy Bars
Natural nut butter (any variety) works just as well as traditional prepared peanut butter in this recipe. But if you use the former, add a pinch of salt to the recipe.

3 cups puffed whole grain cereal (e.g., puffed wheat or Kashi)
1/2 cup chopped nuts or seeds (or a combination)
1/2 (or up to 3/4) cup chopped dried fruit (one fruit, or a combination)
3 tablespoons ground flaxseed
1/3 cup creamy nut or seed butter (e.g. peanut, cashew, almond, soy; natural style is fine)
1/2 cup honey (or brown rice syrup, light molasses, sorghum, or maple syrup)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 9x9-inch square metal baking pan foil; spray with nonstick cooking spray.

In a large bowl mix the cereal, nuts, dried fruit and (optional) flaxseed; set aside.

Place the nut butter and honey in small heavy saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, whisking constantly for about 1 minute until bubbly and smooth. Pour hot mixture over cereal mixture in bowl, stirring to blend (mix well to coat all of the cereal). Transfer mixture to prepared pan. Using a large square of wax paper or foil, firmly press mixture down into pan to firmly compact.

Bake until just golden around edges, about 10 minutes. Cool completely. Remove bars using foil lines and cut into 16 bars or squares. Makes 16 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 bar):Calories 121; Fat 6.0g (sat 0.8g, mono 1.8 g, poly 3.1g); Protein 3.2g; Cholesterol 0mg; Carbohydrate 16.3g; Sodium 28.2mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

A Few Flavor Variations to Get You Started:

Cherry-Pepita (My favorite!): Use tart dried cherries as the fruit, and lightly salted roasted pepitas (green pumpkin seeds) in place of the nuts.
Cashew-Ginger (My second favorite!): Use roasted cashews for the nuts, dates (or dates & apricots) for the fruit; Add 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger, and (optional) 1 teaspoon of toasted sesame oil to the nut-butter mixture.
Cranberry-Pecan: Use dried cranberries as the fruit, and toasted pecans as the nuts; add a pinch of ground cinnamon to the nut butter mixture.
Apple Pie: Combine 1/2 cup chopped dried apples and 1/4 cup chopped raisins for the fruit, and use toasted walnuts for the nuts; add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon to the nut butter mixture.
Apricot Almond: Use toasted almonds for the nuts and chopped dried apricots for the fruit; add 1/2 teaspoon almond extract to the nut butter mixture.
Chocolate or Carob Chip: Replace the fruit with 1/2 cup miniature semisweet chocolate chips, chopped bittersweet chocolate, or carob chips. I like to add a teaspoon of vanilla to the nut butter mixture when I make these.
Spice it Up: A touch of cinnamon, ginger or five-spice power? It’s all good, so be as creative as you like.

Spinach Salad with Blue Cheese, Pears and Candied Balsamic Pecans .

“Mold” and “delicious” are rarely uttered in the same sentence.

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In an age of anti-bacterial obsession, blue cheese is an edible iconoclast. Esteemed for its stink and varicose-like veins, it flouts its stuff with defiant deliciousness.

My own introduction to blue cheese came early. My maternal grandmother (“Gran”), an otherwise vivacious and indulgent woman, was obdurate about the timing and elements of evening snack-time (which just so happened to coincide with cocktail hour).

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At 5 o'clock, Gran presented the same snack tray, invariably comprised of the following: crackers (always Wheat Thins or Triscuits), Canadian Cheddar (she & my grandfather hailed from Manitoba), crudités (radishes, scallions, carrots, and celery—strings removed), and a dip, either French onion or blue cheese.

While it’s true I inhaled the crackers with a speed only 6-year-olds can muster, it was the blue cheese dip that sent me spinning. I double-dipped with abandon and glee, and on several occasions hijacked the entire bowl when Gran wasn't looking. And while I can't be certain, I'm pretty sure that my finger (not the carrots, and certainly not the radishes) was my preferred dipping implement.

This behavior came to a crashing halt when I discovered what I was eating: blue cheese. That’s right, my brother Sean (who wouldn’t touch it) informed me: you’re eating mold.

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The spell was broken. Heartbroken, and slightly revolted, I turned to onion dip and Cheddar.

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It was more than a decade later, in a crummy dorm room at two in the morning, when a friend finally convinced me to give blue cheese another go. With a stiff donut and a wrinkled apple as my only alternatives, it was an easy sell.

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The cheese in question was an imported Gorgonzola, which my friend guarded with the ferocious intensity of a mother lion. I took a few timid bites. Tangy, peppery, piquant, and salty-sweet—in the space of a minute, I was a slave to the blues.

If you are one of the few who has yet to gather courage to try blue cheese, do. No two blues are the same, so there’s bound to be one worthy of your affection. Some are crumbly, others creamy, and a few are downright (and deliciously) gooey. But whether it’s American Maytag, English Stilton, French Roquefort, Italian Gorgonzola, Spanish Cabrales, or any other of the fifty-plus varieties, you can be sure that the single swift-flowing syllable that denotes them all ensures culinary riches.

For me, blue cheese harmonizes beautifully with my healthy eating agenda. It has so much flavor that a little bit goes a long way, whether as part of a meal, for a satisfying snack with a piece of bread and fruit, or sprinkled atop a salad.

It was via a salad that blue cheese made its way into our lives (and mouths) last night. It was a dark, rainy day, and by evening, the weather reports were warning against tornadoes, flash-flooding and electric outages. Weary from the weather and the past few weeks of sickness, a blue cheese-flecked spinach salad—paired with some chicken sausages and white wine—sounded like a just the intervention we needed.

I recognize that there is nothing revolutionary about a spinach salad, but I’m still going to pull for my particular take. Why? Because it requires little effort and minimal ingredients, yet tastes like you just took yourself out to dinner. It can be transformed into an entire meal with the addition of chicken, too.

And then there’s the matter of the nuts: I guarantee that once you make the candied pecans, you will make them again, countless times. They come together in minutes on the stovetop, no baking required, and make the blue cheese sing.

Spinach Salad with Blue Cheese, Pears and Candied Balsamic Pecans

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You will only need half of the pecans for the salad; making the full batch means you have a second batch waiting next time you're ready for salad in a hurry. Store the leftover pecans in a an air-tight container for up to 2 weeks (if the weather turns humid, place the container in the refirgerator or they will becme sticky).

Nonstick cooking spray

1/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, divided use

1 cup pecan halves

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 6-ounce bag baby spinach leaves

1 medium, ripe pear, cut into thin wedges

2 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

Spray sheet of foil with nonstick spray.

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Stir brown sugar, 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon vinegar in heavy medium skillet over medium heat until sugar melts and syrup bubbles, about 3 minutes. Mix in pecans. Stir until nuts are toasted and syrup coats nuts evenly, about 7 minutes. Turn nuts out onto prepared foil. Using fork, separate nuts and cool completely (coating will harden).

Combine spinach, pear and HALF of the cooled pecans in large bowl (save the other half for next time you make salad). Whisk Dijon mustard, remaining 3 tablespoons oil and 1 tablespoon vinegar in small bowl to blend. Season dressing with salt and pepper. Toss salad with just enough dressing to coat. Sprinkle with blue cheese. Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1/4 of salad):

Calories 209; Fat 18.6g (sat 3.1g, mono 11.1g, poly 3.7g); Protein 3.3g; Cholesterol 5.3mg; Carbohydrate 9.8g; Sodium 120.1mg.

(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Camilla’s Nutrition Notes

Blue Cheese: True, cheese has fat, but the flavor is so satisfying, it's worth eating when you want it. Plus, just one ounce of blue cheese provides 15% of your daily supply of calcium and 6 grams of protein.

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Pecans: I’m so glad the ultra-low-fat mania of a decade ago is behind us, because so many good foods were singularly dismissed as “bad” for their higher fat content. Case in point, nuts, which are packed with so many good things, convenient to eat, and readily available.

Here’s the good news for pecans, in particular (one of my very favorite nuts):

Pecans contain approximately 60 percent monounsaturated fat and 30 percent polyunsaturated fat, both of which are the “heart-healthy” variety of fats.

Pecans also contain over 19 vitamins and minerals including vitamin A, vitamin E, folic acid, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, several B vitamins and zinc. Just one ounce of pecans (a handful or about 20 halves) has more zinc (an important nutrient for proper growth and strong immunity) than a 3.5-ounce piece of skinless chicken. Most good sources of zinc are foods of animal origin, but pecans offer an excellent plant-based source.

One ounce of pecans has about the same amount of fiber as a medium-sized apple, and provides 10 percent of the recommended Daily Value for fiber. Fiber keeps you fuller longer and keeps blood sugar steady.

Amped-Up Oatmeal (Healthy Breakfast)

I had grand plans to make this a chocolate & champagne detoxification day. My husband announced that he was going to make some fresh pineapple-orange juice with his new snazz-omatic juicer and I thought “perfect, this will be painless.”

That was until, moments later, he presented me with a mimosa.

Truth be told, I dove in headfirst (I blame it on being thirsty from my early morning class—I know, pretty weak). No surprise, a mimosa made with fresh juice is definitely worth the extra effort (especially when the effort is provided by one’s husband).

But while I gave in, I didn’t give up. Following my final slurp, I headed to the kitchen and made a bowl of my amped-up oatmeal.

When I was little, I used to wonder why Goldilocks did not thank the three bears for letting her steal some of their oatmeal. I would have gladly given up mine for a bowlful of the Fruit Loops I knew my mother would never buy.

It took me awhile, but I finally came around sometime in college, when, several thousand miles away from home, I began craving simple comfort foods—including the pleasures of a good bowl of oatmeal. When made with care, it is smooth, silky and soothing.

These days I find myself cozying up to a big bowl on many mornings and admiring the wisdom of those bears.

It is no headline that oatmeal is good for you: Oats were a mainstay of Scottish and Irish diets for centuries, and the legendary strength of at least one Celtic god is credited to his inexhaustible appetite for porridge. But it is only recently that scientists have begun to understand how oatmeal conjures its nutritional magic.

According to the most recent reports, that big bowl you tuck into on chilly mornings is loaded with disease-fighting anti-oxidants which help lower blood pressure, lower cholesterol levels, and buffer some of the ill effects of the occasional cheeseburger, French fries, and other high-fat treats.

What gives oatmeal its oomph? First, it is made of whole, unrefined grain. The more whole grain you eat, the less vulnerable you are to diabetes, heart disease and some cancers. But even among whole grains, oats are superstars. They contain more soluble fiber than any other grain and are loaded with higher levels of protein, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and vitamin E than either corn or wheat. And while all whole grains contain anti-oxidants, oats have hundreds, including some that are unique.

Not everyone takes to oatmeal, even when topped with maple syrup or brown sugar. In 1755, Samuel Johnson defined oats as "a grain which in England is fed to horses, but in Scotland seems to support a people."

But oats have come a long way since the days they were used mainly as animal feed. Beyond bolstering your bowl of oatmeal with any number of goodies, from dried fruit, to honey, to a sprinkle of mini chocolate chips, you can sneak a cup of oats into some standbys, including muffins, pancake batter, coffee cakes or bread machine recipes. Also consider substituting oats for breadcrumbs in meatball and meatloaf recipes.

But when it comes down to it, nothing beats the bowl. For a bit of inspiration, here’s my recipe for “amped up” oatmeal, which I fortify with ground flaxseed, banana, toasted nuts, cinnamons, and dried fruit.

Camilla’s “Amped-Up” Oatmeal
(a.k.a. Oatmeal with Banana, Flaxseed, Pecans & Blueberries or Cranberries)
When people ask me what I eat in the morning, especially following an intense workout, this is it—it’s one of my regular rotations.
1 cup 1% lowfat milk (or soy, rice or almond milk)
1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2/3 cup quick OR old fashioned oats, uncooked
1 medium-size ripe banana, mashed (about 3/4 cup)
1 and 1/2 tablespoons ground flaxseed
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped toasted walnuts or pecans
1 tablespoon dried cranberries or blueberries
Optional: lowfat vanilla yogurt

In a small saucepan, bring milk, brown sugar, and cinnamon to a simmer (watch carefully); stir in oats. Return to a boil; reduce heat to medium. Cook 1 minute for quick oats, 5 minutes for old fashioned oats, or until most of liquid is absorbed, stirring occasionally.

Remove oatmeal from heat. Stir in mashed banana, flaxseed and vanilla. Spoon oatmeal into two bowls. Top with nuts, dried fruit and (if desired) vanilla yogurt. Makes 2 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1/2 of the oatmeal):Calories 249; Fat 7.9g (sat 1.5g, mono 2.7g, poly 3.2g); Protein 8.8g; Cholesterol 6.1mg; Carbohydrate 38.4g; Sodium 66.9mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Chocolate Pots de Crème (healthy chocolate)

My grumpy inner child (I think her name’s Myrtle; she doesn’t come out often) longs to dismiss Valentine's Day as the Madison Avenue-produced frenzy of fluff I know it to be. But the strength of my testy convictions is curiously and invariably out-muscled each Feb. 14 by my softer, squishier side. Hence I've spent the morning constructing homemade valentines (I love a paper doily) for my son’s nursery school mates and taking photos for this V-day blog entry.

Let's face it: how could a winter's day dedicated to the sanctioned consumption of chocolate be all bad?

An old French proverb proclaims that "Without bread, without wine, love is nothing." Chocolate should have been added to the list, but the sentiment is solid: sharing food crystallizes feelings of love, packing far more symbolic punch on Valentine's Day than flowers, jewelry and perfume combined.

My suggestion for V-Day 2008? Stick with the chocolate theme, but maximize its inherent bravura. Make chocolate pots de crème. More specifically, make my recipe for chocolate pots de crème, which are as good to eat as they are good for you.

Pots de crème (pronounced "poh duh krehm") are fancy, individual cups of custard. In lay terms, it is the most delicious chocolate pudding ever. Silky, seductive and distinctly sublime, pots de crème are at once elegant and comforting. Every silken spoonful articulates, "I love you." Savoring the leftovers says, "I love me."

I have developed a lot of recipes over the years, but the ones I make over and over are the ones I like best—which means the easy-to-make ones, like these elegant pots de crème. I have lightened the caloric and fat profile significantly, but the flavor and consistency hold true to the authentic versions. This one is best served chilled, so plan on making it tonight or tomorrow morning if you plan on serving tomorrow night.

Displeasure is not a possibility with pots de crème; I can still remember the ecstasy of my first taste of the confection more than a decade ago. The recipe is a classic for Valentine's Day and any other special occasion because it yields divine results and necessitates few ingredients, no fancy equipment and minimal preparation.

The opportunity for folly in this recipe is easily avoided. If you slosh and stir all of the hot milk into the eggs at once, le voila: chocolate scrambled eggs (intriguing, yes; edible, doubtful).
To avoid such congealing, follow my directions for adding a small amount of the hot milk mixture to the eggs before adding all of the milk. This slowly raises the temperature of the eggs (a process called “tempering”). Once the egg-cream mixture is added to the remaining milk, keep the heat very low to avoid curdling.

You don’t need anything but a spoon come serving time; except, perhaps, a paper doily valentine beneath each cup.

Enlightened Chocolate Pots de Crème

This recipe comes from my most recent cookbook, Enlightened Chocolate, published October 2007 by Cumberland House Publishing.

2 large eggs

2 and 1/2 cups fat-free milk

2/3 cup sugar

5 tablespoons good quality unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)

1/8 teaspoon salt (preferably fleur de sel)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Preheat oven to 350°F.

In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs until lightly beaten. Set aside.

Combine the milk, sugar, cocoa powder, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally (about 3 minutes). Stir in the vanilla and chocolate, stirring until chocolate melts.

Gradually add 1/4 cup hot milk mixture to eggs, stirring constantly with a whisk. Add egg mixture to milk mixture in pan, stirring with a whisk to combine. Pour into 8 (4-ounce) ramekins.

Place ramekins in a 13x 9-inch baking pan. Add hot water to pan to a depth of 1 inch.
Bake 32-35 minutes or until a knife inserted in center comes out clean. Remove ramekins from pan; cool completely on a wire rack. Chill 8 hours or overnight. Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition per Serving (1 pot de crème):

Calories 278; Fat 5.2g (poly .3g, mono 1.8g, sat 2.7g); Protein 15.2g; Cholesterol 60.4mg; Carbohydrate 45g.

VARIATIONS:

Spirited Chocolate Pots de Crème: Stir in 1 tablespoon of liqueur, brandy or bourbon to hot milk mixture in place of the vanilla.
Chocolate-Orange Pots de Crème (see photo above--a garnish of orange zest is a perfect finish): Stir in 1 and 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest to hot milk mixture before adding chocolate and vanilla.
Mocha-Javanaise Pots de Crème: Add 2 teaspoons instant espresso to hot milk mixture before adding chocolate and vanilla.
Mayan Chocolate Pots de Crème: Add 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon to hot milk mixture before adding chocolate and vanilla.

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Camilla's Chocolate Health Notes:

Dark chocolate (i.e., bittersweet and unsweetened) and unsweetened cocoa powder have excellent health-giving properties becasue they are packed with a particular type of antioxidants called flavonoids (also commonly referred to as bio-flavonoids). Scientists are further discovering that it is likely the large amounts of a subclass of flavonoids found in chocolate and cocoa products—flavonols—that boast the strongest antioxidant activity and may contain other health-promoting attributes.

And no, you weren’t imagining that sense of calm that enveloped you the last time you savored a few pieces of dark chocolate. Granted the sensory pleasures—taste, smell, mouth feel—associated with eating chocolate had something to do with the soothing effects, but there’s more to it than that.

One explanation has to do with magnesium. Chocolate has a high level of magnesium, about 56 mg in a 2-ounce bar of dark chocolate. Stress causes the body to deplete its supplies of magnesium, ultimately leading to biochemical imbalances. It is hypothesized that the magnesium in chocolate helps restore the body’s magnesium balance, resulting in a mild sedative effect.

Chocolate also contains a compound called anandamide, a neurotransmitter that targets the same brain structures as THC, the active ingredient in cannabis. Now don’t get too excited—to make a substantial impact on the brain’s own natural anandamide levels, experts estimate you would need to eat several pounds of chocolate. It’s more likely that chocolate works indirectly to produce a “high”.

As well as anandamide, chocolate also contains two hard-to-pronounce, and even harder-to-spell chemicals (N-oleolethanolamine and N-linoleoylethanolamine) known to slow the breakdown of anandamide. It’s thought that chocolate might therefore work by prolonging the action of this natural stimulant in the brain.

Cashew Cream Chocolate Truffles

A bittersweet chocolate truffle with a healthy profile? It sounds too good to be true.

But it isn’t. Here’s how it all began.

Over a one-month period last summer, I (willingly) slipped into an ice cream-making mania. If you’re wondering why I don’t weigh 500 pounds as a result of my frozen adventures, it’s because I limited the fun to lighter ice cream, sherbet and sorbet recipes (many from Cooking Light’s recipe database) as well as from one amazing little cookbook: Vice Cream--Over 70 Sinfully Delicious Dairy-Free Delights, by Jeff Rogers.

The key to Mr. Rogers’s delights is a “cream” made from an ingenious emulsion of raw cashews and water. With the right proportion of nuts and liquid, and a blending time of several minutes, the mixture emerges as a satiny “cream”, a neutral backdrop for mixing up (v)ice creams every bit as tempting as their dairy cream cousins. Moreover, the cashew cream makes the desserts friendly to vegan and lactose intolerant friends, as well as everybody else open to replacing a bit of high cholesterol butterfat with heart-healthy cashew cream.

After my third or fourth batch of cashew pulverization, a light bulb lit: why not use the cashew cream to replace heavy cream in other dessert recipes? Having spent the year previous arm-deep in dark chocolate for my Enlightened Chocolate book, it wasn’t long before I put two and two together and developed Enlightened Chocolate Truffles. They are pure chocolate decadence.

The best chocolate truffles have two primary ingredients: good-quality chocolate and heavy whipping cream. The former is melted and the latter is added to make what is called a ganache. The flavor can be varied with vanilla, liqueurs and spices. The ganache is chilled, scooped and rolled into small balls, then dusted with cocoa powder.

My enlightened truffles follow the same formula. The cashew cream works without a hitch because it functions in the same way as the heavy cream, contributing a velvety dimension (it isn’t grainy) to the chocolate without marring it in any way. You won’t think nuts, vegan, diet, or substitution when you take a bite, just chocolate truffle perfection.

Am I being nutty for suggesting these truffles are “healthy”?

I would argue a definitive “no”, and here’s why: the two main ingredients for the recipe, dark chocolate and cashews, have significant nutritional value.

Clinical research over the past decade increasingly indicates that consumption of antioxidant-rich chocolate and cocoa is associated with health benefits from improved cardiovascular function to reduced bad cholesterol levels to increased alertness.

Cashews have nothing to slouch about either. They have a lower fat content than most other nuts, and approximately 3/4 of their fat is unsaturated fatty acids (a particularly beneficial kind, too-- oleic acid, which is the same heart-healthy monounsaturated fat found in olive oil). Cashews are also a very good source of copper (important in a wide range of physiological processes), and a good source of magnesium.

So while I’m not (necessarily) endorsing a chocolate truffle feeding frenzy, I do feel confident in saying that one (or two, or three) of these truffles makes a healthful, beautiful, and very delicious addition to a well-balanced eating plan.

I hope you’ll give these a try for Valentine’s Day—you deserve it!

Enlightened Chocolate Truffles

(a.k.a. vegan chocolate truffles / lactose-free chocolate truffles / better-for-you chocolate truffles)

1/2 cup raw cashews
1/2 cup cold water
10 ounces good-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch of salt (preferably fleur de sel)
1/2 cup good quality unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)

Place the nuts and cold water in a blender and blend at high speed for 2 minutes. Stop the blender and scrape down the sides. Blend at least 1-2 minutes longer until the mixture is smooth (mixture will be very thick; add 1-2 additional tablespoons water, if needed, to blend until smooth).

Meanwhile, melt the chocolate in a metal or glass bowl set over saucepan of simmering water until smooth. Remove bowl from heat and cool slightly. Stir in cashew cream, vanilla and salt until well-blended. Refrigerate truffle base (uncovered) until firm enough to roll, about 2-3 hours.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with waxed paper. Place the cocoa powder in a small shallow bowl.

Scoop out 1 tablespoon of truffle base and roll between fingertips or palms into a ball. Drop each freshly made truffle into bowl of cocoa powder and turn to coat. Transfer to prepared sheet. Repeat with remaining truffle base and cocoa powder. Chill until firm, about 1 hour. Makes about 28 truffles.

Nutrition per Serving (1 truffle): Calories 57; Fat 5.7g (poly 0.3g, mono 2.0g, sat 3.1g); Protein 1.5g; Cholesterol 0mg; Carbohydrate 3.4g; Sodium 46.1mg.
(Note: I did the nutrition analysis using Diet Analysis Plus 7.0.1)

Camilla’s Notes:
(1) Use a cookie scoop: A 1-tablespoon size cookie scoop (such as the OXO small cookie scoop) makes scooping even portions of ganache SO much easier.
(2) Be prepared to have chocolate hands: Wear an old shirt and an apron for the rolling; things will get a bit messy. But that’s part of the fun!
(3) Irregular balls: (how's that for a heading!) It's fine if the truffles are not perfectly round; they are called truffles becasue they resemble the fungi truffles, which are very much irregular in their shape. Odd shapes add character.
(4) Doubling the recipe: This recipe doubles without a hitch.
(5) Finding raw cashews: Your local health food store is the best place to look. They tend to have them in bulk, for good prices, too. Or you can order online: Raw Cashews by Mail
(6) Chilling ganache for more than 2-3 hours: If you chill the ganache for a very long time (say, overnight), you will need to let it warm up on the counter for 15-30 minutes to make it pliable enough to roll into balls.

VARIATIONS
Espresso Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but delete the vanilla and add 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder, dissolved in 1 tablespoon coffee liqueur (e.g., Kahlua), to the truffle base along with the salt. Roll in cocoa nibs (see Scharffen Berger ) or the cocoa powder.

Almond Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but replace 1 teaspoon of the vanilla with 1/2 teaspoon almond extract. Roll in finely chopped toasted almonds.

Tokyo Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but add 1/4 teaspoon wasabi powder and 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger along with the vanilla and salt. Roll in toasted white sesame seeds instead of cocoa powder.

Cardamom Rose Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but add 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom to the truffle base and replace 1 teaspoon of the vanilla with 1 teaspoon rose water.

Fire & Smoke Chile Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but decrease vanilla to 1 teaspoon and add 1/2 teaspoon chipotle chile powder, 2 teaspoons lime juice and 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest.

Vanilla-Mint Truffles: Prepare Enlightened Truffles as directed above but add 1/4 teaspoon peppermint extract to the truffle base along with the vanilla and roll in crushed red & white-striped peppermint candies.